On the afternoon of June 19, 2023, just three and a half days after arriving in Lagos, we had an unfortunate turn of events. Michele and I had been running errands on our bicycles. We were just finishing lunch at Linda The Beach Bar, one of the local beach front restaurants. It had started to mist lightly and we were not really dressed for the rain so we headed to our bikes for the short ride back to Sea Dog. We had stopped earlier in the day at Sopromar centro Nautico de Lagos, the local marine shop for a portable step to help get on/off Sea Dog when docked. As I was strapping the step onto the rack on the back of my bike, Michele told me she was chilly, she wanted to get going. I told her I would be right behind her in a couple of minutes. Our bikes were parked just off the road at a bike rack in the sand. Once I had the step secured I headed off onto the paved road. As I rounded the corner, I noticed a car pulled over to the side of the road and a cyclist sitting on the walkway just off the road. As I got nearer, I realized the cyclist was Michele. At first I though she got hit by the car. It turns out the car was a good samaritan that had either witnessed the crash or seen Michele down on the side of the road and stopped to help. As I arrived, Michele was sitting and looked none the too happy. She had a bloodied forehead and dirt and scuffs on her shirt. She told me she was pulling over on to the path to stop and wait for me when all of the sudden, the front of the bike turned out from under her and she went flying forward over the handle bars. She described that she was riding fast to warm up when she decided to pull over to wait and when the front of the bike spun out she took quite a flight thru the air landing on her right side. She was visibly stunned and was asking me to help her get up. I could see there was something wrong with her leg. I sat down behind her so she could relax a bit and lean against me for support. A couple of more people stopped to help and one called an ambulance for us.
Not long after we could hear the siren in the distance and a bright red Bombeiros (ambulance) arrived on the scene.
The two medics, who did not speak much English, were very helpful. They examined Michele and thought it best to transport her to the local hospital for further evaluation. After we realized that Michele could not get up or stand on her own we knew there was something more serious going on besides a bit of blood and a few scrapes. The medics, with the help of my self and a strong bystander were able to get Michele transferred to a stretcher and into the back of the ambulance.
I asked to ride along since I had no idea of where they were taking her, but they insisted that is was not allowed and they gave me the address of hospital where they were taking her. On the way to the hospital in broken English they kept telling Michele when she got to the hospital they would give her "free food, free everything". As the ambulance pulled away, siren blaring, I gather up Michele's bike, jumped on mine and was able to ride both back to Sea Dog in one shot.
Now it was time to find Michele. Luckily I was able to get an Uber to take me to Unidade Local de Saude do Algarve - Hospital de Portimao, about a 35 minute drive from the marina. When I found the emergency room, it was packed. After waiting about 30 minutes I was finally able to talk with someone with the help of Google Translate. I explained the situation, that my wife an, American, had been brought to the hospital via an ambulance and that I wanted to see her. I was told I must wait, so I did. After almost two hours of patiently waiting, not always my strong suit, especially in stressful situations, I went back to the desk, a bit more insistent that I be allowed to see my wife. It was getting late. I needed to find out if she was here and what was going on, I was finally able to see Michele, more than 4 hours after she was taken away by ambulance. I found her on a gurney in the entrance to an emergency ward that was over flowing with gurneys full of patients. I can't recall ever seeing a scene like this in real life, it was like some disaster movie. Michele was told by the doctors that she had a broken leg and would need surgery.
It turns out the hospital is the public (free everything for the locals) hospital. She had been told that there were no rooms on the orthopedic floor and that she would have to stay in the emergency ward for the next several days until a room was available. Even if/when she got a room, it was not clear when she could be scheduled for surgery. Things were going from bad to worse, Michele had a broken hip in a foreign country, unable to get care for multiple days. This was just not acceptable. We started to brain storm ideas and talk to various doctors about options. We considered trying to transport her home via medical air transport but the quotes ranged from $25,000 to over $200,000 dollars and it would still mean not having her hip repaired for multiple days. A couple of the nurses and doctors explained that there were private hospitals in Portugal that we might consider. While the public hospital was free to the locals or EU nationals, it was not for US citizens. I was trying to get an estimate about what it might cost for the surgery and hospital stay but no one seemed to be able to give me any answers. Oh, did I mention, that while I had some coverage from Medicare Supplemental plan, Michele had no medical insurance. It was on our to do list before departure but it fell through the cracks. It was getting late and the nurses where telling me that I had to leave. I continued to stay, not wanting to leave Michele in this limbo situation. I was finally convinced to leave when two orderlies and two police officers came to escort me out. I pleaded for 5 more minutes. In that time we decided that I would investigate the nearest private hospital in Portimao. It was now after 10pm. I took an Uber to Hospital Particular do Algarve - Alvor.
Thankfully the reception desk at Hospital Particular do Algarve was staffed with a woman behind the desk that spoke English. I explained the entire situation and was asking if I could get an estimate of what it might cost for surgery, hospital stay and availability. If was a very frustrating situation. She either did not understand what I was asking for or could not provide the answers. She seemed unwilling to call in someone that might be able to help. It was just the two of us in the reception area. I would step back, take a couple of deep breaths and start again with a slightly different pitch hoping to get through to her. To my luck, another woman came out who must of been over hearing our conversation. She told me that she understood what I was requesting and that she could help. She opened a folder of procedures and costs and within minutes she was able to give me a rough estimate of what it would cost including the surgery and the hospital stay. The two of them together said that they could admit Michele the following day and based on the doctors examination perhaps even schedule her for surgery that day as well. What a relief, there was a solution in sight. It was late so I decided to call Michele in the morning not wanting to wake her if she was asleep. I Uber'ed back to the boat. I was exhausted both mentally and physically.
Laying awake all night, Michele started calling the private hospital around 6am. After talking with multiple people she finally found someone that could help. The person told her "I am the person you want to be talking to. I can get you transferred within 4 hours". Michele was so relieved. She called to give me the news and I shared mine with her. The plan was for me to meet her at the public hospital prior to her being transported. I took an Uber to the hospital and waited for her to be released. I was allowed to ride to the new hospital in the back of the transport ambulance and see her into the emergency room.
Arriving in the new emergency room, it was like we entered into a completely different world. It was quiet, well staffed, plenty of beds, each in a secluded curtained area for privacy. What a relief. While I waited, Michele was examined and had an X-ray. The doctors confirmed that she had broken the top of her femur. They told her due to the position of the break and her age that she needed a complete hip replacement. The great news was that she could be scheduled for surgery later that afternoon.
Michele was in a semi-private room being well taken care of by an assortment of nurses and physical therapist. She had three meals a day, with her favorite being the fresh squeezed orange juice and a fresh Portuguese roll for breakfast.
If seemed like no time before Michele, with a big smile, was up and about with the aid of a walker and the physical therapist. The snazzy white stockings are compression socks to keep her legs from swelling. These became a regular part of her wardrobe for several weeks.
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It was good to see her smiling! |
Michele was in the hospital for a total of 7 days. While Michele was recuperating and getting to know her new hip I would visit her daily. When not visiting I was kept busy with all of the logistics of "what next".
So you are probably asking, "What was next?". The doctors told Michele they would not release her unless she promised not to go back to Sea Dog for several months. Ouch! In addition, we were told she would not be able to fly for a week to ten days, so getting home to New Jersey would have to wait. We booked a room at the Marina Club Lagos hotel, on the first floor with easy access and close to Sea Dog.
Our plans were to sail with Michelle and Keith to Tangier Morocco for the first two weeks of July and then head to Gibraltar where we would bid them farewell. Well those plans were dashed. Michelle and Keith, with a month left on their vacation made plans to visit Montenegro and then UK/Ireland/Scotland. While we stayed in the hotel upon Michele's release, Michelle and Keith stayed on Sea Dog for a few days. They visited with Michele, graciously bringing us home cooked dinners on several nights. I made plans to leave Sea Dog on the hard for three months in Lagos while Michele and I flew back to New Jersey. Michelle and Keith were a big help in getting Sea Dog ready to be hauled out at yard at Sopromar centro Nautico de Lagos.
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Sea Dog being hauled out on June 28, 2023 |
Once Michele was feeling better, a bit more mobile, able to get around on her crutches, we got the OK from her doctors that she could fly, we were ready to head home to New Jersey. Michele and I rented a car, I drove to Lisbon, about a 3.5 hour drive, so we could get a direct flight from Lisbon to Newark NJ. Well, old Murphy, you remember Murphy, he decided to show up again. Our flight was cancel, there was weather in Newark. We had booked an inexpensive hotel near the airport, thinking we were just there a short time before an early morning flight. Neither of us could see staying another night, so I found a much nicer hotel, a Radisson Blu. The hotel was great, a large clean and very comfortable room with a restaurant on the property. While Michele was napping I took a walk in the neighborhood and discovered a very pretty little park, Jardim Mario Soares.
The park was a pleasant surprise, nice walking paths, sculptures, a small lake with boats you could rent as well as small cafes to enjoy an espresso or a cold beer. I enjoyed the latter.
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Sculpture by Fernando Botero
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We enjoying a fine dinner at
Restaurant Bordalo Pinheiro in the Radisson Blu hotel and got a relaxing night sleep. The next morning, we checked with United Airlines , the flight was on time, we were good to go. We were on our way to the airport with a direct flight to New Jersey.
I had a bit of confusion at the airport, I saw signs for chegada and for partida. Without taking the time to ask Google, I thought chegada must be check-in in English. Oops, it was arrival. Oh well, I had a 50/50 chance of getting it right. I saw an airport employee wheeling a woman in a wheelchair and asked where I could get one for Michele. He explained that this was the arrival area. I explained my situation, I admit I was a bit frazzled, He was super helpful and agreed to take Michele in the wheelchair and stay with her and the bags while I returned the rental. Once back, he lead us thru the airport, knowing all of the secret wheelchair routes through check-in, security, immigration and customs. It was awesome.
I booked Michele into first class so that she would be comfortable on the flight home. The United plane had a real first class section, with a separate privacy cubby for each passenger with fully reclining, lay flat seats. Michele was in heaven. While I was in baggage class, Michele was enjoying champagne and fine inflight meals. I visited her in first class during the flight, to see how she was doing, As can be imagined she was quite satisfied with her accommodations.
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Strapped in and happy in 1st class. |
When we landed, a wheelchair was waiting for Michele and whisked us through customs. Michele jokes, it took a hip replacement to fly first class. At least there was a little upside to an unfortunate turn of events.
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